Lake Como with the Espíritu Founders — A Slow Guide to Bellagio, Varenna & Beyond

Founders on the water with their Espiritu's — Lake Como, you had us at ‘ciao’.

We just returned from Lake Como, and we’re still carrying the sound of ferry horns and evening glasses clinking on the docks. Como rewards unhurried travelers: boats instead of cars, balconies instead of skyscrapers, and paths that insist you look up from your phone. Here’s our extended, slow guide — how we moved, what we loved, and everything we’d repeat.

1 · Arriving & Getting Oriented

Como sits at the base of an inverted “Y.” The town of Como anchors the southwest, Lecco anchors the southeast, and the northern fork leads to small villages and Alpine views. Trains from Milan reach Como in about an hour; from there, the lake’s ferry network becomes your best friend. Buy a day or multi-day pass at the pier and think in crossings, not car rides.

2 · Move by Water: Ferries, Rhythm, Light

Como is a lesson in pacing. Mornings bring crisp reflections and quieter decks — perfect for photography and calm village strolls. Midday is for long lunches in the shade. Late afternoon turns the water into liquid glass; that’s when we loved crossing from Varenna to Bellagio. Sunset belongs to dock benches and the small clink of aperitivo hour.

• Tip: Save screenshots of ferry timetables; signal can fade at small piers.
• Tip: Lines ebb and flow — arrive one ferry early if you’re on a tight dinner booking.

3 · The Trio with Personality: Bellagio, Varenna, Menaggio

Bellagio is the grand postcard: stepped lanes perfumed by lemon trees, linen shops and terraces angled for perfect frames. Varenna whispers instead — a slim promenade where flowered balconies lean over the water and cafés linger past blue hour. Menaggio brings open-piazza energy and long waterfront strolls, ideal for gelato and people-watching without the crowd crush.

• Where to linger: Varenna’s Passeggiata degli Innamorati (“Lovers’ Walk”) for soft evening light.
• Where to breathe: Menaggio’s promenade benches — take a 20-minute pause and watch the ferries crisscross.

4 · Villas & Gardens Worth the Ticket

Lake Como’s villas are living stage sets. Villa Carlotta offers sculpture, botanical gardens and lake-level lawns. Villa del Balbianello (reachable by boat or a scenic walk) perches dramatically over the water; its terraced gardens and loggias feel built for daydreaming. Book ahead in peak months and go early for room to wander.

• Timing: First entry slots have softer light and fewer groups.
• Photography: Respect ropes and garden rules; these are heritage sites first, photo ops second.

5 · Walks for Every Mood

Greenway del Lago di Como threads lakeside hamlets with stone lanes, tiny chapels and olive groves — choose a segment if you’re short on time. For a little height, hop on the Como–Brunate funicular and catch the ridge views, or sample stretches of the historic Sentiero del Viandante near Varenna for a balcony-like trail above the water.

• Footwear: flexible soles for cobbles; breathable uppers for afternoon heat.
• Etiquette: step aside on narrow paths; greet hikers with a simple “buongiorno.”

6 · Eating & Aperitivo (Make It a Ritual)

Como’s kitchens favor lakeside fish, polenta, butter and sage, with mountain herbs sneaking into sauces. Reserve one splurge dinner on a terrace — then do as locals do: a simple spritz and olives by the water most other nights. Leave space for gelato and an unhurried walk back to the pier.

• Tip: Lunch prix-fixe menus can be better value than dinner.
• Tip: Ask for “mezzo litro” (half-liter) of house wine if you’re sharing and want to linger.

7 · Packing That Actually Works

• Layers, not bulk: mornings and nights cool quickly by the water.
• Espiritu huaraches: perfect for cobbles, ferry decks and garden paths.
• Tote or small daypack: for a market picnic (bread, cheese, stone fruit) and a light sweater.
• Cash + card: ferries and small cafés vary; carry both.

8 · A Lake that Teaches Pace

Como’s greatest luxury is time. Take the long way back, let the next ferry be “your plan,” and remember that not every view needs a caption. That’s where the lake gets under your skin.

Espíritu’s Take

We travel to feel the ground again — stone, deck, grass. That’s why we pack woven, breathable huaraches that move easily from path to pier. If your next trip needs fewer blisters and more slow miles, take the shoe that lets you wander longer.